Log of the Island Spirit - Gran Tarajal (Fuerteventura) to Rubicon (Lanzarote) - In which I spill some personal beans.

Tuesday 11 October 2016
1335 - Puerto del Gran Tarajal
What an extraordinarily pleasant three days I've had here. This town is a throwback to what it must have been like before the tourism boom. Starting with the marina; it's cheap, with water and electricity included - less than €12 a day. It has two visitor pontoons; the bathrooms are a bit of a hike but they're reasonably clean and functional. The Officina Capitania is only sporadically manned but the security staff are quite happy to do the booking in and take payment.

It's easy to criticise the amount of needlessly duplicated paperwork in these off piste marinas, but it's just the way of things. They're not technophobes by any means, but it's blatantly obvious that introduction of a smart data entry system would kill off a dozen jobs. I've grown to love the Spanish for their contradictions and idiosyncrasies; especially in these islands. They're workshy, hopelessly inefficient, socially loud and boisterous; quick with a joke, slow to criticise (if ever), well mannered, friendly, helpful (when they understand your needs), and extremely family-orientated. And, aesthetically sophisticated; some of the public art you find in the most ramshackle of places is quite astonishing. Yes, I'll miss the Canaries when I leave in November, especially these undeveloped locales.

Some views of Gran Tarajal

So, specifics about the town for anyone planning to come here. It has a longish, clean sandy beach fronted by half a dozen café/bar/restaurants, an ice-cream parlour, and a "Spynese" restaurant (not a KFC or MacDonald's in sight). I found only one café with WIFI, so if you need to connect, be careful where you choose for that catch-up cup of coffee. "Tiene WIFI?" often just gets you a bemused shake of the head.

I must mention the sea-food restaurant near the boatyard on the way to town. It doesn't look much, but the fish is fresh-caught, widely varied, reasonably priced, and... amazing. Last night I had the langostinos, and I have to say, those baby-lobster-sized prawns were some of the best I've tasted anywhere.

So, my passage plan. Tonight I will sail from here, time depending on when this strong northerly wind abates. I'll make my way northwards into a reducing, backing wind, and with luck, by mid-morning I'll reach the top of the island just as the wind swings westward. That should give me a brisk beat across the gap to Rubicon. Let's see how that pans out, hehe. Before I leave I'm going to visit that Chinese for dinner, but now it's siesta time - it's going to be a long night.

Wednesday 12 October 2016
0155 - Departed GT a little later than expected, waiting for that gusty north-easterly to settle down. Besides, I enjoyed the paco a la naranja con arroz y vedura so much, especially with a glass of fine Rioja, I felt a couple of hour's head-down appropriate. Now calm and quiet in the marina; feeling a little guilty about disturbing the sleeping mariners next door with my engine. We stand out into a moderate swell; wind light from the north, and as soon as the ropes and fenders are stowed, I hoist the main with one reef.

0320 - 28 13.2N 13 56.5W Co 066 Sp 4
Motorsailing half a mile offshore in an awkward shifting wind. Tried the genny a couple of times but she wouldn't have it. Looks like motorsailing all the way. Still, it's a pleasant night passage under a star-spangled sky. Astern, a big, yellow, rock-a-bye-baby moon drifts down to the horizon.

0648 - 28 23.4N 13 48.9W Co 020 Sp 3.1
Spent the early hours catnapping in the saloon, in between looking out for fishing boats and frequent course changes to step around the corner. I have swell, current, and a light northerly breeze against me, hence, at times barely making 3 knots. The only other vessel seen was a cruise ship overhauling close up the port side, lit up like a small city.

0825 - 28 28.3N 13 47.4W Co 010 Sp 3.5
A fine sunny morning, calm-ish sea, but with a moderate swell from the north. The wind hasn't been very inspiring; still a feeble 8 knots, but shifting towards the west - a good sign. But still too fine over the bow for the genny. El Lobo island within sight some fifteen miles on the port bow, and I can see the hazy mountains of Lanzarote far ahead. Three miles to port, the ash-heaps of FV look glorious in the morning light. Should get to Rubicon late afternoon, dependant on conditions between the islands.

1014 - 28 35.3N 13 46.5W Co 005 Sp 3.8
On the port bow, two white blocks appear to be floating on the water; an optical illusion caused by refraction. Actually, I know exactly what they are; beach resort hotels, and they appear like that because the low spit of land on which they stand is below my horizon, as in fact, are the mountains that I know lie behind them.

Six years ago, I spent Christmas at the larger of those two hotels, in an attempt to self-deny that I missed my home and children, after being forced to leave due to the intolerable conditions of a deteriorating marriage. It didn't work. The all-inclusive holiday was an unmitigated disaster. Far from escaping those early memories of domestic bliss (if they ever really existed), I found myself among hordes of delirious children crowding the pools, stereotypical German businessmen acting like they owned the place, queues of obese hedonists going round a third time for weinelschnitzel & sauerkraut and over-sweetened puddings, louts at the bar getting rissoled on free beer and cheapo wine on tap, and to cap it all, Santa arriving at the swimming pool on a camel to the accompaniment of a brass band. Now don't misunderstand me. People are entitled to spend their holidays just as they wish - I just chose the wrong holiday for me, and to be fair, I should have known better. That following summer, to compensate, I flew to Jamaica, which suited me fine. And that winter I went to Grenada and stayed on Carriacou for five months - that's where I found, peace, closure, and the impetus to write my first novel, The Errant Petty Officer. It was also there, on that enchanting little island, that I gained the inspiration for my second. And that's where I'm heading again in November, where I'll complete the current one, my fourth.

1430 - Berthed alongside at Marina Rubicon
Wow, what glorious spell of real sailing! As I passed El Lobo, the westerly sprang up, and I unfurled the genny; toe-rail in the water as I streaked across the gap at 6 knots. Wonderful. I couldn't help thinking to myself, I'm getting rather good at this sailing lark; a trip that went fully according to plan.
At the marina I paid up for two weeks in exchange for 10% discount, though my other motive was fear of the plummeting pound. Checking my bank account later, I was shocked to see the exchange rate I got for the transaction; close to parity.

I was even more dismayed to see how little money I have left - none, in fact; I'm into my allowed overdraft. The cost of my recent mishaps and splashing out on meals out have taken a wicked toll. I'm spending far too much, too quickly, and without a single asset left to fall back on, I need to be more careful. It might have been the tiredness of the overnight passage, but last night I was quite depressed. I haven't been this broke since my early twenties. Right now, after a good night's sleep, I'm feeling more positive. But time to tighten the belt, methinks.

(I know this revelation will disappoint those of my readers who think my novels are cash cows. In truth, I make a couple of quid a month from sales. No marketing or promotion, you see; too much trash on the Indie market, and word of mouth hasn't been as effective as hoped. Basically, it's a hobby; but one I love, so that's all right then, isn't it?)

It's a bit cooler here than I've been used to over the last three weeks, with even a few spots of rain this morning. It's forecast to improve tomorrow. My brother-in-law John arrives here on Saturday with some of the family, staying at nearby Playa Blanca. Looking forward to seeing them. And the following week, my other Brother-in-law, Nigel, arrives to help me sail Spirit across the pond. The company and an extra pair of hands will make a refreshing change.

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