Log of the Island Spirit MMSI 235113215
Monday 14th May 2018 All times GMT
1414 Departed St George’s Harbour
1500 Position: 32° 24.6”N 64° 36.5”W Course 065°M Sp 4.2 kts
It’s a beautiful sunny morning with a (too) gentle breeze WNW. Running with wind over port quarter, reefed main (with preventer) and full genoa bellying out like a Wagnerian goddess in late pregnancy. Funny incident just after leaving the channel; a tropic bird thought to make advances to my wind-turbine, not sure whether hostile or amorous, but it hovered in front of it for a good few seconds before squawking in frustration and flying off.
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| Last of Bermuda |
So, Dear Reader, how was Bermuda? I hear you ask.
Quite pleasant, for a brief stay. Apart from the stinging prices, the place is strangely short on character. Though the permanent residents seem quite quirky and outgoing, I was disappointed with the uninteresting neatness of the place, and the lack of engaging wildlife; few birds (except sparrows and ducks), hardly a seabird anywhere. Night time brings out a cacophony of whistling treefrogs, their rhythmic shrieking ringing out across the water from the shrubbery above town. Lord knows what they eat, for there’s a noticeable lack of insect life; No mozzies, which is good, no butterflies, which is bad. I found myself longing for the suspect smells of the Antilles; heaven forbid the faint whiff of an open sewer or an indolent down-and-out begging a dollar for food. No folks, Bermuda is squeaky clean; pristine villas amid well-kept lawns and resplendent flora, quaint, tidy shops lining unlittered streets, buildings smartly liveried in pastel shades, and the ubiquitous dazzling white roofs, frequently re-rendered and cleaned to ensure no drop of rain water is wasted. The churches – of which there are many – are particularly splendid; spectacular blinding white edifices standing imperiously amid perfectly landscaped graveyards crowded with glorious subtropical blooms.
This morning’s weather forecast mentioned the first of the season’s disturbances possibly developing into a tropical cyclone off Cuba. Very early, and hopefully it will fizzle out. Or at least, not track north.
I’ve improvised the two awning side panels to act as dodgers on the after guardrails in order to mitigate the worst washovers later on when it will get rough. Must get some proper ones made in UK, with Island Spirit painted on them.
1900: 32° 34.4”N 64° 24.2”W Co 070 Sp3.5
Sailing “goosewinged”, main slightly by the lee with a preventer. Lack of wind and slow rolling making genoa irritable. Going to suffer it a few more hours in hope of better wind. Not much choice, really, unless I head up north – reluctant to take the longer, windier route. Gambling my decision is the right one – only time will tell. Four hours till sunset, sky clear wall to wall. Lost sight of Bermuda.
Thinking about my sailplan. Really it needs the pole out, but I’m loth to rig it with night coming on and no certainty about the wind. It should be backing and increasing, but no sign of that yet. If no change by sunset I’ll head north on a broad reach; at least that’ll give me overnight peace. Could have wished for a better start.
An hour later: I’ve had enough of the turbulent genny, so now heading 040°, making 4.5 kts on a very pleasant broad reach. Now I can relax. I can always make up my eastward progress when the wind gets back into line.
2225: 32° 49.2”N 64° 16.8”W Co 050 Sp 3.8
Tuesday 15th May 2018
0342: 33° 03.0”N 64° 12.0”W Co 055 Sp 4
1025: 33° 32.1”N 63° 59.2”W Co 070 Sp 4
Thinking about rigging the pole.
1250: Decided in the end, rather than faffing about with the pole on a rolling deck, to go “Clipper”. If the technicalities of sailing don’t interest you, Dear Reader, feel free to skip this next section.
So, engine on, roll away the genoa, turn upwind and drop the mains’l. Up to the mast (harnessed of course) stow the mains’l. Fasten a roller block to the end of the boom, unreeve the starboard genny sheet and feed it through the block on the boom, then re-reeve it through the traveller, deck roller, and back to the winch. Position the boom out to starboard, almost touching the shroud, haul taut the preventer to keep it there. Haul out the genny until clew is a half metre from the block and secure it there. Job done.
Four knots; hardly seems worth the effort, I think, watching that great big sail fanned out to leeward as I eat my breakfast. Problem is, my genoa is just too big and heavy for these light and troublesome winds. When the boat rolls on the swell gravity takes charge and the sail collapses, filling again with a judder and jerks the boom upwards. I realise too late I should have slackened off the vang line; a bad nip at that angle has caused it to chafe and fail. Not enough rope remaining to repair it, and no spare of the right size. No big deal really. Annoyed with myself though.
The wind remains stubbornly in the west, so continuing on 030°. To much north for too little east but can’t be helped. Will defer any further decisions till this afternoon.
Just visited by a solitary booby, first bird since yesterday’s tropic bird. Just swooped low and close then continued northward as if beckoning me to follow. A sign, perhaps.
1505: 33° 47.6”N 63° 49.6”W Co 040 Sp 4.5
Wind picked up a bit, genny staying mostly filled.
1902: 34° 04.9”N 63° 44.1”W Co 030 Sp 5 (all these courses are Magnetic – for True, subtract 20°)
Wind continues to pick up, but I’m still trundling northwards.
2100: Hey! Feeling pretty chuffed with myself. Just finished rigging the pole on the port side ready to take the genoa sheet when I change tack, which eventually I must. The wind has picked up considerably, bellying out the genny tight as a drum and tugging us along at 6 knots. This has allowed me 20° to starboard, so at last I’m making ground to the east.
Very pleasant afternoon; sunny with friendly seas. Although the Atlantic swell remains formidable, it’s become long and lazy, swaying us gently as we cream through an empty blue ocean.
Made only 90 miles on day one, but hoping for 120 today. Still about 1900 miles to go, so early days yet.
2317: 34° 22.0”N 63° 30.4”W Co 072 Sp 5.5
Goosewinged, with genoa poled out. Yippie!
Wednesday 16th May 2018
0248: 34° 35.6”N 63° 13.4”W Co 080 Sp 6.5
We’re flying!
1000: 34° 55.8”N 62° 31.6”W Co 080 Sp 5.5
Woke up feeling tired after a pitchy night. Now in the Trade Winds proper, and that sweet strip of ocean between the risky calms of the Azores High and gale-ridden low pressure systems to the north. Trick is to stay in a sweet zone that constantly moves, swells and shrinks from day to day. Running goosewinged before 16 knots of wind, full genny on pole and two-reefed main. Despite slight asymmetry of rig, Georgina behaving like an angel, rudder gain at 2.
Sea is moderate to rough, breaking waves and long, 10-foot rollers marching up from astern in battalions. Sky partly cloudy with scattered cumulus and bands of higher cirrus to the east through which the morning sun radiates a hazy warmth. Feeling decidedly cooler this morning; need to break out the salopette and seaboots soon.
One small niggle: with the sails splayed out ahead like a giant butterfly, the solar panel is totally blocked from the forenoon sunshine. But post-meridian, we should get a good blast till sunset (clouds permitting).
Having porridge for breakfast.
1415: 34° 58.4”N 62° 08.8”W Co 070 Sp 3.8
Wind dropped again. jinking north 10° to keep speed up.
110 miles since yesterday, 200 miles from Bermuda, roughly 1750 miles to Azores.
May need to change sailplan again and head further north. We’ll see.
2155: 35° 20.9”N 61° 44.3W Co 055 Sp 4.8
Feeling sleepy.
Thursday 17th May 2018
0452: 35° 46.4”N 61° 23.4”W Co 055 Sp 5.2
AIS Collision alarm woke me up. Sailing vessel ‘Johanna’ overtook to port. She’s doing 5.7 knots, so long vigil until she’s clear. She’s wearing a steaming light, so assume she motoring. Strange.
0942: 36° 05.5”N 61° 01.1”W Co 075 Sp 6.5 (Variation now 18°, so subtract that to get True)
Made 120 miles today. Johanna called and exchanged pleasantries. They had a problem with their rig last night and decided to wait for daylight before fixing it. They’re now pulling ahead of me at around 7.5 knots, so I’ll lose sight of them sometime today.
Another 300 miles or so and I’ll pick up the northern route Great Circle to Flores, the westernmost island of the Azores archipelago. Hoping the wind moves around with me, or else I’ll need a new sailplan. I note the Johanna has her pole out to starboard. Mine is out to port.
1800: 36° 36.5”N 60° 13.4”W Co 080 Sp 5
A fine afternoon’s sailing, warm, sunny, not too rough, log speed touching 8 knots at times. Wind eased off a little now. Johanna still in sight, hull down on the horizon; she’s half a knot faster.
2257: 36° 47.3”N 59°48.4”W Co 085 Sp 4.5
Friday 17th May 2018
0600: 37° 03.5”N 59° 06.9”W Co 075 Sp 6
1000: 37° 18.3”N 58° 40.9”W Co 075 Sp 7
Uncomfortable night. Awoke tired with backache.
Everything is damp up top from heavy dew, even the two comfort seats which I stowed under the sprayhood last night. Need to start bringing them below at night.
The sea this morning is dark steely blue with breaking waves in 18-20 knots wind, still up our chuff. Swell giving us wild and unpredictable lurches, hence the discomfort last night and probably caused the backache. Still, the increased wind is welcome.
Again, the sun rises behind the main, so no solar panel till past noon. Sky fairly clear with wispy cirrus waiting to be consumed by the heat of the day. Though it’s getting gradually cooler; wore clothes today: shorts, T-shirt and lightweight fleece. Will try to keep feet naked until toes tingle – better grip when moving around.
A bit of chaffing on genny sheet where it comes through the pole – not unexpected. So now I’ve hung a block on the end of the pole and run the sheet through that. A bit unconventional, but it works.
No vessels in sight, or on AIS. A few perished flying fish on deck this morning, and beginning to see Cape Petrels, a sure sign of more temperate climes.
1400: 37° 33.0”N 58° 12.6”W Co 080 Sp 7.5
The sea has become angry and dangerous. Just spent an hour re-securing the dinghy after a big wave moved it, causing it the chafe against the gantry. Wedged in a couple of fenders to keep it clear of sharp corners.
The big swells are giving Georgina a few problems, especially when we go surfing, up to ten knots on the crest then dropping back to five in the troughs. When this happens the genny collapses then snaps taut with an almighty crack that shudders through the bones of the boat – heard out of context you’d swear it was a thunderclap directly overhead.
Still bright and sunny, making good progress, 140 miles today. I wanted wind, and I’ve got it, and now I could wish for a gentler passage. Be careful what you wish for, eh?
1921: 37° 45.8”N 57° 34.1”W Co 080 Sp 7
Hard day at the office; sea rough and horrible today. Wanted to make less ground to the north but my sailplan needed revision. First attempt I lost control of the genoa trying to furl it away. Poor Georgina lost it totally and went round in circles while I wrestled the main sheets. Eventually got the genny furled amid much horrendous flogging; came close to shredding it.
Next up, had to change the pole to the starboard side. Unclipped from the mast to clear the short forestay, nearly had it clipped back on when she rolled heavily, and I dropped the bloody thing 6 foot to the deck in order to save myself. Luckily no damage, and eventually got it rigged and hauled out. Decided to move it forward to use less sail; to give more symmetry with the main. Now I’m not happy with the lateral angle of the pole; it should be horizontal, but the shortened sail pulls it too high. I need to slide it further up the mast to compensate, but that will have to wait until tomorrow. I’m knackered and hungry.
Georgina struggling to keep her downwind with all this sea smacking our behind; twice now she’s backed the genoa. New sailplan not such a good idea. Need to think.
2034: Okay, plan B. Furled away the genny, and now cruising comfortably on main only, making 5 to 6 knots. Left the pole out in case things improve tomorrow. Looking forward to a restful night.
Saturday 19th May 2018
0442: 37° 42.0”N 57° 00.1”W Hove to
Find out in the next post why I’m stationary in mid Atlantic, and how a whale nearly did for me. A hair-raising tale to follow.
Quite pleasant, for a brief stay. Apart from the stinging prices, the place is strangely short on character. Though the permanent residents seem quite quirky and outgoing, I was disappointed with the uninteresting neatness of the place, and the lack of engaging wildlife; few birds (except sparrows and ducks), hardly a seabird anywhere. Night time brings out a cacophony of whistling treefrogs, their rhythmic shrieking ringing out across the water from the shrubbery above town. Lord knows what they eat, for there’s a noticeable lack of insect life; No mozzies, which is good, no butterflies, which is bad. I found myself longing for the suspect smells of the Antilles; heaven forbid the faint whiff of an open sewer or an indolent down-and-out begging a dollar for food. No folks, Bermuda is squeaky clean; pristine villas amid well-kept lawns and resplendent flora, quaint, tidy shops lining unlittered streets, buildings smartly liveried in pastel shades, and the ubiquitous dazzling white roofs, frequently re-rendered and cleaned to ensure no drop of rain water is wasted. The churches – of which there are many – are particularly splendid; spectacular blinding white edifices standing imperiously amid perfectly landscaped graveyards crowded with glorious subtropical blooms.
My navigation plan is to head out on 065°M (050°T) for about 300 miles, to around 38°N, then take the Great Circle route to the Azores. The wind currently, is a bit moody; at times I’m barely making 3 knots. I expect it to back SW over the next few hours so I can wear round onto starboard tack, and hopefully maintain that for the rest of the passage.
This morning’s weather forecast mentioned the first of the season’s disturbances possibly developing into a tropical cyclone off Cuba. Very early, and hopefully it will fizzle out. Or at least, not track north.
I’ve improvised the two awning side panels to act as dodgers on the after guardrails in order to mitigate the worst washovers later on when it will get rough. Must get some proper ones made in UK, with Island Spirit painted on them.
1900: 32° 34.4”N 64° 24.2”W Co 070 Sp3.5
Sailing “goosewinged”, main slightly by the lee with a preventer. Lack of wind and slow rolling making genoa irritable. Going to suffer it a few more hours in hope of better wind. Not much choice, really, unless I head up north – reluctant to take the longer, windier route. Gambling my decision is the right one – only time will tell. Four hours till sunset, sky clear wall to wall. Lost sight of Bermuda.
Thinking about my sailplan. Really it needs the pole out, but I’m loth to rig it with night coming on and no certainty about the wind. It should be backing and increasing, but no sign of that yet. If no change by sunset I’ll head north on a broad reach; at least that’ll give me overnight peace. Could have wished for a better start.
An hour later: I’ve had enough of the turbulent genny, so now heading 040°, making 4.5 kts on a very pleasant broad reach. Now I can relax. I can always make up my eastward progress when the wind gets back into line.
2225: 32° 49.2”N 64° 16.8”W Co 050 Sp 3.8
Tuesday 15th May 2018
0342: 33° 03.0”N 64° 12.0”W Co 055 Sp 4
1025: 33° 32.1”N 63° 59.2”W Co 070 Sp 4
Thinking about rigging the pole.
1250: Decided in the end, rather than faffing about with the pole on a rolling deck, to go “Clipper”. If the technicalities of sailing don’t interest you, Dear Reader, feel free to skip this next section.
So, engine on, roll away the genoa, turn upwind and drop the mains’l. Up to the mast (harnessed of course) stow the mains’l. Fasten a roller block to the end of the boom, unreeve the starboard genny sheet and feed it through the block on the boom, then re-reeve it through the traveller, deck roller, and back to the winch. Position the boom out to starboard, almost touching the shroud, haul taut the preventer to keep it there. Haul out the genny until clew is a half metre from the block and secure it there. Job done.
Four knots; hardly seems worth the effort, I think, watching that great big sail fanned out to leeward as I eat my breakfast. Problem is, my genoa is just too big and heavy for these light and troublesome winds. When the boat rolls on the swell gravity takes charge and the sail collapses, filling again with a judder and jerks the boom upwards. I realise too late I should have slackened off the vang line; a bad nip at that angle has caused it to chafe and fail. Not enough rope remaining to repair it, and no spare of the right size. No big deal really. Annoyed with myself though.
The wind remains stubbornly in the west, so continuing on 030°. To much north for too little east but can’t be helped. Will defer any further decisions till this afternoon.
Just visited by a solitary booby, first bird since yesterday’s tropic bird. Just swooped low and close then continued northward as if beckoning me to follow. A sign, perhaps.
1505: 33° 47.6”N 63° 49.6”W Co 040 Sp 4.5
Wind picked up a bit, genny staying mostly filled.
1902: 34° 04.9”N 63° 44.1”W Co 030 Sp 5 (all these courses are Magnetic – for True, subtract 20°)
Wind continues to pick up, but I’m still trundling northwards.
2100: Hey! Feeling pretty chuffed with myself. Just finished rigging the pole on the port side ready to take the genoa sheet when I change tack, which eventually I must. The wind has picked up considerably, bellying out the genny tight as a drum and tugging us along at 6 knots. This has allowed me 20° to starboard, so at last I’m making ground to the east.
Very pleasant afternoon; sunny with friendly seas. Although the Atlantic swell remains formidable, it’s become long and lazy, swaying us gently as we cream through an empty blue ocean.
Made only 90 miles on day one, but hoping for 120 today. Still about 1900 miles to go, so early days yet.
2317: 34° 22.0”N 63° 30.4”W Co 072 Sp 5.5
Goosewinged, with genoa poled out. Yippie!
Wednesday 16th May 2018
0248: 34° 35.6”N 63° 13.4”W Co 080 Sp 6.5
We’re flying!
1000: 34° 55.8”N 62° 31.6”W Co 080 Sp 5.5
Woke up feeling tired after a pitchy night. Now in the Trade Winds proper, and that sweet strip of ocean between the risky calms of the Azores High and gale-ridden low pressure systems to the north. Trick is to stay in a sweet zone that constantly moves, swells and shrinks from day to day. Running goosewinged before 16 knots of wind, full genny on pole and two-reefed main. Despite slight asymmetry of rig, Georgina behaving like an angel, rudder gain at 2.
Sea is moderate to rough, breaking waves and long, 10-foot rollers marching up from astern in battalions. Sky partly cloudy with scattered cumulus and bands of higher cirrus to the east through which the morning sun radiates a hazy warmth. Feeling decidedly cooler this morning; need to break out the salopette and seaboots soon.
One small niggle: with the sails splayed out ahead like a giant butterfly, the solar panel is totally blocked from the forenoon sunshine. But post-meridian, we should get a good blast till sunset (clouds permitting).
Having porridge for breakfast.
1415: 34° 58.4”N 62° 08.8”W Co 070 Sp 3.8
Wind dropped again. jinking north 10° to keep speed up.
110 miles since yesterday, 200 miles from Bermuda, roughly 1750 miles to Azores.
May need to change sailplan again and head further north. We’ll see.
2155: 35° 20.9”N 61° 44.3W Co 055 Sp 4.8
Feeling sleepy.
Thursday 17th May 2018
0452: 35° 46.4”N 61° 23.4”W Co 055 Sp 5.2
AIS Collision alarm woke me up. Sailing vessel ‘Johanna’ overtook to port. She’s doing 5.7 knots, so long vigil until she’s clear. She’s wearing a steaming light, so assume she motoring. Strange.
0942: 36° 05.5”N 61° 01.1”W Co 075 Sp 6.5 (Variation now 18°, so subtract that to get True)
Made 120 miles today. Johanna called and exchanged pleasantries. They had a problem with their rig last night and decided to wait for daylight before fixing it. They’re now pulling ahead of me at around 7.5 knots, so I’ll lose sight of them sometime today.
Another 300 miles or so and I’ll pick up the northern route Great Circle to Flores, the westernmost island of the Azores archipelago. Hoping the wind moves around with me, or else I’ll need a new sailplan. I note the Johanna has her pole out to starboard. Mine is out to port.
1800: 36° 36.5”N 60° 13.4”W Co 080 Sp 5
A fine afternoon’s sailing, warm, sunny, not too rough, log speed touching 8 knots at times. Wind eased off a little now. Johanna still in sight, hull down on the horizon; she’s half a knot faster.
2257: 36° 47.3”N 59°48.4”W Co 085 Sp 4.5
Friday 17th May 2018
0600: 37° 03.5”N 59° 06.9”W Co 075 Sp 6
1000: 37° 18.3”N 58° 40.9”W Co 075 Sp 7
Uncomfortable night. Awoke tired with backache.
Everything is damp up top from heavy dew, even the two comfort seats which I stowed under the sprayhood last night. Need to start bringing them below at night.
The sea this morning is dark steely blue with breaking waves in 18-20 knots wind, still up our chuff. Swell giving us wild and unpredictable lurches, hence the discomfort last night and probably caused the backache. Still, the increased wind is welcome.
Again, the sun rises behind the main, so no solar panel till past noon. Sky fairly clear with wispy cirrus waiting to be consumed by the heat of the day. Though it’s getting gradually cooler; wore clothes today: shorts, T-shirt and lightweight fleece. Will try to keep feet naked until toes tingle – better grip when moving around.
A bit of chaffing on genny sheet where it comes through the pole – not unexpected. So now I’ve hung a block on the end of the pole and run the sheet through that. A bit unconventional, but it works.
No vessels in sight, or on AIS. A few perished flying fish on deck this morning, and beginning to see Cape Petrels, a sure sign of more temperate climes.
1400: 37° 33.0”N 58° 12.6”W Co 080 Sp 7.5
The sea has become angry and dangerous. Just spent an hour re-securing the dinghy after a big wave moved it, causing it the chafe against the gantry. Wedged in a couple of fenders to keep it clear of sharp corners.
The big swells are giving Georgina a few problems, especially when we go surfing, up to ten knots on the crest then dropping back to five in the troughs. When this happens the genny collapses then snaps taut with an almighty crack that shudders through the bones of the boat – heard out of context you’d swear it was a thunderclap directly overhead.
Still bright and sunny, making good progress, 140 miles today. I wanted wind, and I’ve got it, and now I could wish for a gentler passage. Be careful what you wish for, eh?
1921: 37° 45.8”N 57° 34.1”W Co 080 Sp 7
Hard day at the office; sea rough and horrible today. Wanted to make less ground to the north but my sailplan needed revision. First attempt I lost control of the genoa trying to furl it away. Poor Georgina lost it totally and went round in circles while I wrestled the main sheets. Eventually got the genny furled amid much horrendous flogging; came close to shredding it.
Next up, had to change the pole to the starboard side. Unclipped from the mast to clear the short forestay, nearly had it clipped back on when she rolled heavily, and I dropped the bloody thing 6 foot to the deck in order to save myself. Luckily no damage, and eventually got it rigged and hauled out. Decided to move it forward to use less sail; to give more symmetry with the main. Now I’m not happy with the lateral angle of the pole; it should be horizontal, but the shortened sail pulls it too high. I need to slide it further up the mast to compensate, but that will have to wait until tomorrow. I’m knackered and hungry.
Georgina struggling to keep her downwind with all this sea smacking our behind; twice now she’s backed the genoa. New sailplan not such a good idea. Need to think.
2034: Okay, plan B. Furled away the genny, and now cruising comfortably on main only, making 5 to 6 knots. Left the pole out in case things improve tomorrow. Looking forward to a restful night.
Saturday 19th May 2018
0442: 37° 42.0”N 57° 00.1”W Hove to
Find out in the next post why I’m stationary in mid Atlantic, and how a whale nearly did for me. A hair-raising tale to follow.
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